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l Melissa's Adventure

No one will ever compare her to Julia Child, but
Melissa Clement has now completed culinary arts classes, and she
has the vegetable lasagna and rum cake to prove it.
BY MELISSA CLEMENT
PHOTOS BY RACHAEL SANTILLAN
Each of my adventures is supposed to be something I have never
done, something I haven’t done in a generation or so, or something
I have never done well.
I can’t say I have never cooked. I reared four healthy children
on nourishing food, but they have never said, “Mom, will you
make some of that (fill in the blank) like you used to?’’
When my relatives get together, I ask, “What should I bring?”
I am told in a cheery little fashion, “Just bring yourself,
dear,” or “You can bring the wine.’’ I get
it. Sometimes I take deviled eggs. I can make each one look interesting
by putting a half-olive right in the middle of each deviled egg,
so it looks like an eye. People don’t really taste deviled
eggs anyway. They just sort of shove them in and swallow.

Chef Richard Kugelmann instructs Melissa Clement
on proper knife techniques.
I was discussing this with chef Richard Kugelmann, who teaches
culinary arts at Fayetteville Technical Community College. He said
I needed to learn to cook a “signature dish.’’
It sounds so classy, I had to do it. And so my first adventure into
the culinary arts began.
On a Friday, I went to the FTCC Culinary Arts Department on campus
in the Horace Sisk building. I entered through the kitchen and was
amazed at just how shiny clean the place is — talk about eating
off the floor. I witnessed Kugelmann’s dozen students hard
at work, taking orders and filling them, just as if they were in
a commercial setting. Half the students practiced waiting tables
while the other half did the cooking. It was a busy place.
BREAK OUT THE KNIVES!
On Monday, I joined the students in watching a video on sauce-making.
It was complicated. If I had to make those sauces, I would be too
exhausted to eat them. I learned that Bechamel sauce is the basis
for lots of French sauces. I doubt I will make it, but it sounds
good when it rolls off your tongue. When students went to the kitchen
to practice, I watched and learned how to crack an egg and pass
it from shell to shell until the white drops out. I went home and
practiced this neat trick. It’s something I can show off for
my family.
One of the important things I learned was knifery. In Chef Richard’s
office, he unwrapped and laid out a bevy of knives, all for different
uses you wouldn’t believe. One is a curved tourne knife used
for cutting vegetables into a football shape. It was almost a reverent
occasion, like some man showing you his treasured gun collection.
These tools of the trade deserve respect.
Tuesday was a hands-on day for me, the day when the chef gives
me private lessons on how to bake a rum cake, something I never
would have attempted before.
Chef Richard was trained in classical French cooking. He says that
in the mid-1800s, the French were the first to organize and set
standards for cooking procedures and they perfected the art of cooking.
He can use sexy-sounding terms like “mise en place,”
which means “putting everything in place’’ or
getting all ingredients and tools you need ready before you start
the cooking process.
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| Fire-grilling the veggies. |
It’s important. You don’t want to be running all around
when you find you have just used up your last cup of eau de vie
and have to borrow some from a neighbor in the middle of the night.
The next important thing to do is turn on the oven unless, of course,
you are just making a salad.
Next comes the mixing. I’m surprised when we start with cake
mix, but do not follow package directions. It’s only used
as a base as is the vanilla pudding mix to shorten the time it takes
to make his own recipe. We use cottonseed oil because it has less
flavor so it doesn’t interfere with the finished taste.
We go to the storage room and Chef Richard unlocks the storage
cabinet. What a sight. He takes out a bottle of dark Bacardi rum,
carefully measures and records the amount. One-half cup for the
batter, another for the glaze.
During the mixing, I get a lesson in the proper use of a whisk,
using your wrist rather than your arm.
The Bundt pan is sprayed and floured and the bottom filled with
sliced almonds, which will be on the top when it is flipped over
after baking.
While the cake is in the oven, we make the glaze using real butter.
The chef believes in using the best and freshest ingredients and
never mind the fat. “Fat is flavor. If you are worried about
fat, take a walk the next day,’’ he says with an under-his-breath
apology to his mother, who is extremely health-conscious.
The cake is almost done. To test it, he plunges in a giant toothpick.
It comes out clean and after five minutes I am entrusted with turning
the cake upside-down on to a plate. He says, “Be gentle.”
I tell him I will. It’s my first time.
USING MY (LASAGNA) NOODLE
My next adventure is making his recipe for grilled vegetable lasagna.
Here we put a wet cloth under the cutting board to stabilize it.
I learn how to chop vegetables with a curved knife using a rocking
motion and pushing away from my body. Breathe through you mouth
when chopping onions and your eyes won’t water. I rough-cut
portabello mushrooms, eggplant and other vegetables and toss them
into a bowl, then add olive oil and basil, oregano and thyme. Smells
good already.
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| The cook shows off her rum cake! |
The chef demonstrates “painting” oil on the grill and
positions thick-cut vegetables on it. In a few minutes, I turn them
45 degrees to create awesome cross-hatched patterns. This is fun.
We later cut up the vegetables for the lasagna, but the flavor is
still there. He says cooks who can grill properly are some of the
glamour chefs of the kitchen.
The next step is to assemble the whole shebang. We layer three
cheeses and vegetables on flat strips of lasagna in a steel pan
and bake it for 45 minutes. Ahhh, the aroma. Now comes the rewards
of all that work — eating the fruits of our labor, the out-of-this-world
finished dish.
I learned some great things from Chef Richard, an enthusiastic
teacher. Now, if I can just remember all of those things that I
wish I would have learned years ago.
n
> HELP! I’M MISSING
MY CULINARY GENES!
> Learn to cook
with Chef Richard, click here

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