n l FEATURE

BY MARY ELLE HUNTER
PHOTOS BY RACHAEL SANTILLAN

Gracing the village of Pinehurst for more than a century, the Magnolia Inn had its beginnings as a Victorian boarding house. The inn was one of the first two places for guest lodgings that James Tufts constructed as he embarked on the creation of what would become the world famous golf resort. Initially five stories tall, the Magnolia Inn was reduced to three stories sometime after the turn of the century on Tufts’ orders, because it blocked the view of the Carolina Inn.

A large front porch invites visitors to linger at the Magnolia Inn, which marks its 110th birthday this year.

Now, the Magnolia Inn has undergone a thorough and careful renovation to return it to its splendid past. Dan Berry, an executive with the Sheraton Hotel Corp. for more than 30 years, and his wife, Jackie, purchased the inn late this spring.

Native New Englanders, the couple have poured their time, funds, effort and expertise into reviving the time-honored traditions of the Magnolia Inn. “We even spent a night in each of the 11 guest rooms in order to be sure that every room not only had the utmost eye appeal in period furnishings and décor, but also met the highest standards of comfort level,” Dan says.

A wonderful heirloom tilt-top table with a colorful bouquet welcomes the guests in the narrow hallway leading back to The Pub. A warm and friendly place, The Pub is decorated with collegiate banners, and adjacent to it is an attractive pool area with tables for outdoor dining. The expansive front porch, a prominent feature of the original Magnolia Inn, is also used for outdoor dining.

Nowhere are the renovations more conspicuous than in the main double dining room. Soft tones of pale yellow predominate, and graceful mahogany chairs have been upholstered in a muted plaid, with an antique fireplace refashioned and refinished in a striking white and black combination.

The new décor is carried over into a private dining room, which is currently used for breakfast. A down-home breakfast buffet is presented by Miss Lucy, an octogenarian who is a longtime member of the staff. The room is named for the area’s famous golfer, Harvie Ward, and it used to contain Ward’s golf memorabilia until his death a few years ago. In season, the room is a popular area for private dinner parties.

Presiding over the preparation of the cuisine, described as a “new American experience,” is executive chef Ryan Payne, assisted by sous chef Brian Worley. Recently wooed to the Magnolia Inn by Dan Berry, both chefs formerly were on staff at the four-star dining room at Kingsville Resorts in Williamsburg, Va. Under Payne’s watchful supervision, each menu item is a work of culinary art, and contains the freshest ingredients available.

Dinner selections include such delightful first courses as The Inn’s Own Lump and Blue Crab Strudel to be followed by entrées like a Pancetta Pork Tenderloin, Bristol Bay Sockeye Salmon served with California broccolini and Pernod sauce, and a Dijon Encrusted New Zealand Rack of Lamb accompanied by fresh asparagus and a red pepper confit. A Griswold Seared Sea Scallop with sautéed wild leek, truffle corn relish and blood orange puree is one of Chef Payne’s favorite recipes, which he agreed to share: n

Top, executive chef Ryan Payne, front, and sous chef Brian Worley in the kitchen with some of their beautifully presented dishes.

Bottom, new owners Jackie and Dan Berry wasted no time in renovating the historic inn, giving particular attention to period furnishings, creating comfortable spaces and offering a first-class dining experience. They even spent nights in each of the 11 guest rooms to make sure everything felt just right.